Hazards

What to avoid

Some feeders are lethal. Some plants are toxic. And several common keeper habits cause long-term harm. This page covers the critical things to keep away from your gecko.

Fireflies will kill your gecko. Lucibufagins — the compounds that make fireflies glow — are lethal to crested geckos in very small amounts. A single firefly can be fatal. There is no safe amount. Never feed any wild-caught insect, ever.
Insects never to feed
Superworms
Never

Too large and too tough-bodied for most crested geckos, which have comparatively small mouths and delicate jaws — a real choking and injury risk, and their aggressive bite can injure an unprepared gecko. Skip these for this species regardless of the gecko's age.

too-largeinjury-riskskip-for-species
Mealworms
Never

The hard chitin exoskeleton is difficult for a crested gecko to digest, and the poor Ca:P ratio offers little nutritional benefit over a complete CGD diet. Generally skipped in favour of softer-bodied feeders if offering live insects at all.

hard-exoskeletonpoor-ca-pskip-for-species
Waxworms
Never

Far too fatty for a species this small — 22% fat content can contribute quickly to obesity in a gecko that typically weighs only 35–65g as an adult. Skip entirely; there's no good reason to offer these to a crested gecko.

too-fattyobesity-riskskip-for-species
Citrus fruits
Never

High acidity can irritate the digestive tract and isn't part of this species' natural diet. Skip oranges, lemons, limes, and grapefruit entirely.

avoiddigestive-irritant
Avocado
Never

Contains persin, a fungicidal toxin considered dangerous to many animals. Every part of the plant — fruit, skin, pit, and leaves — should be kept well away from the enclosure.

toxicpersinnever-feed
Fireflies / Lightning Bugs
Never

Lethal to reptiles generally — fireflies produce lucibufagins, defensive steroid toxins that cause rapid death if ingested. There is no safe amount. Never feed any wild-caught bioluminescent insect.

lethallucibufaginsnever-ever
Wild-caught insects
Never

Any insect from your garden or an outdoor space carries pesticide residue, herbicide contamination, and parasite risk with no reliable way to test or clean it. Only feed captive-bred insects from a reputable supplier if offering live feeders at all.

pesticide-riskparasite-risknever-feed
Plants to keep out of the enclosure
Pothos
Avoid
Epipremnum aureum

Widely marketed as "reptile safe" because it was assessed for dogs and cats, not reptiles — it appears on the Reptiles Magazine toxic plant list. Despite being an extremely common, hardy, humidity-loving vine that would otherwise suit an arboreal enclosure well, it should be avoided given how much time a crested gecko spends investigating and resting on foliage.

falsely-listed-safereptile-toxicmisleading-info
Pothos alternative: Philodendron hederaceum
Avoid
Philodendron hederaceum

Contains calcium oxalate crystals that irritate on contact — avoid, despite superficially similar growth habit and humidity needs to pothos. Use a genuinely safe climbing vine instead, such as pothos-alternative Ficus pumila (creeping fig) or a silk plant.

calcium-oxalatereptile-toxic
Pothos alternative: Nephthytis / Arrowhead Vine
Avoid
Syngonium podophyllum

Also contains calcium oxalate crystals and appears on multiple reptile toxic-plant lists despite superficial resemblance to safer climbing vines. Avoid, especially given how much foliage-time this species spends.

calcium-oxalatereptile-toxic
Peace Lily
Avoid
Spathiphyllum spp.

Contains calcium oxalate crystals and is toxic if grazed on. Its humidity preference would otherwise suit this enclosure, but toxicity rules it out entirely.

calcium-oxalatereptile-toxic
Ivy (all species)
Avoid
Hedera spp.

On the Reptiles Magazine toxic plant list. Contains triterpenoid saponins and falcarinol, both toxic on ingestion, despite being a common, hardy climbing vine that would otherwise suit an arboreal setup.

reptile-toxicsaponins
Oleander
Avoid
Nerium oleander

Extremely toxic to virtually all animals — contains cardiac glycosides that cause heart failure even in small doses. Keep entirely away from any reptile enclosure.

cardiac-glycosidesfatalnever
Sago Palm
Avoid
Cycas revoluta

One of the most toxic plants to animals generally. Every part contains cycasin, causing severe liver failure. Never place near a reptile enclosure.

cycasinliver-failurefatal
Euphorbia species (Pencil Cactus, African Milk Tree, etc.)
Avoid
Euphorbia spp.

The entire genus produces a milky latex sap causing severe burns and irritation on contact, and is toxic if grazed. Also poorly suited to humid conditions regardless of toxicity. No Euphorbia species should be used.

toxic-latexentire-genusnever

Common mistakes
Adding an unnecessary heat lamp

Most homes need no dedicated heat source for this species. Adding one anyway can push temperatures above roughly 82°F, risking heat stress — a common, avoidable beginner mistake specific to this species.

Running the enclosure too dry

This species needs genuinely high humidity (50–80%), not the low humidity many popular pet reptiles prefer. Under-misting is a common cause of chronic stuck sheds.

Grabbing or restraining by the tail

Unlike leopard geckos, a crested gecko's dropped tail never grows back. Careless handling near the tail causes permanent, irreversible tail loss.

Feeding an incomplete diet instead of complete CGD

Relying on live insects alone, or a poorly formulated homemade mix, without a complete commercial CGD as the base is a leading avoidable cause of Metabolic Bone Disease in this species.

Buying a Lilly White without research

This popular pale morph has been associated with weaker jaw structure and feeding difficulty in some lines. Ask about feeding history and jaw structure before buying one.

Leaving crickets loose overnight

If offering optional live insects, crickets left loose will bite a sleeping gecko. Always remove uneaten feeders within 15 minutes.

Warning signs — see a vet
Rubbery, soft, or visibly bowed limbs
Tremors, twitching, or seizures
Tail base noticeably thinner than the neck
Refusing food for more than 2 weeks without a clear reason
Swollen limbs, jaw, or belly
Watery, bloody, or unusually foul-smelling stool
Eyes sunken or unable to fully open
Difficulty lifting the head or walking
If you notice any of these signs, consult a reptile-specialist vet promptly. MBD and nutritional deficiencies are treatable when caught early — they become difficult or impossible to reverse when left untreated.

Housing hazards
Sand or loose substrate for hatchlings hunting insects

A hatchling hunting live crickets on loose substrate can accidentally ingest particles along with prey. Use paper towel for young geckos being fed live insects.

Heat rocks or any unnecessary heat equipment

Heat rocks create localised hot spots that cause severe contact burns. But more commonly for this species, any unnecessary heat equipment risks pushing temperatures above the safe range this species needs.

Cohabitation

Crested geckos are solitary. Two geckos in one enclosure causes chronic stress, resource competition, and injury — even between two females that appear to tolerate each other.

Sealed enclosures with no ventilation

A fully sealed glass enclosure traps humidity into stagnant, mould-prone dampness rather than the healthy humid conditions this species needs. Good airflow is not optional.

No hygrometer

Without a digital hygrometer, there’s no reliable way to know your misting routine is actually holding 50–80% humidity — guessing by how the substrate looks isn’t accurate enough.

Deep water dishes

Crested geckos can drown in a water dish deeper than their belly. Use a very shallow dish — a bottle cap works for hatchlings. Change it daily as geckos will defecate in standing water.