Common Crested Gecko Diseases & Health Problems
| Most common condition | Diet-related MBD or heat stress |
| Heat stress threshold | ~82°F sustained |
Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD)
Most often caused by feeding an incomplete diet — live insects without a complete CGD base — rather than lack of UVB, since this species' UVB dependency is lower than a basking species. Signs include soft or swollen limbs and jaw, tremors, and difficulty moving. Feeding a quality commercial CGD as the diet base largely prevents this.
Heat stress
Sustained temperatures above roughly 82°F cause lethargy, appetite loss, and can be fatal in severe or prolonged cases. Unlike most reptile health issues, this is caused by too much heat rather than too little — check enclosure placement and room temperature, particularly in summer.
Stuck or incomplete shed
Usually traces back to insufficient humidity. Retained shed on toes especially needs prompt attention since it can cut off circulation.
Parasites
Common in geckos from poorly managed breeding facilities or pet stores. A fecal exam by a reptile vet shortly after acquiring a new gecko is the standard way to catch this early.
See the full care guides guide, or browse all 440 info pages.
A single adult crested gecko needs a minimum 18"x18"x24" front-opening, well-ventilated enclosure — taller matters more than wider since this species is highly arboreal — furnished with cork bark, branches, and dense foliage for climbing.
A complete crested gecko setup needs a tall 18"+ front-opening enclosure, cork bark and branches for climbing, coco fibre/moss substrate, a misting routine to hold 50–80% humidity, and complete CGD powder — no heat lamp is required in most homes.
Hatchlings can start in a small (roughly 8"x8"x12") enclosure to make food easier to find, juveniles move up around a few months old, and adults need a minimum 18"x18"x24" vertical enclosure.
Crested geckos generally do best at normal room temperature, roughly 72–78°F, and can suffer heat stress above about 82°F. Most homes need no basking bulb or heat mat at all — just monitoring during hot weather.
Low-level UVB (roughly 5–6% output) is increasingly recommended as good practice, though it isn't strictly mandatory for crested geckos the way it is for a strongly basking desert species — their diet's built-in D3 from CGD covers much of the gap.
Crested geckos need roughly 50–80% humidity, achieved through misting once or twice daily, with good ventilation to prevent the dampness from turning stagnant.