Leopard Gecko Care Sheet (Quick Reference)
| Adult size | 7–11 in (18–28 cm) |
| Lifespan | 15–20 years |
| Enclosure minimum | 20-gal long |
| Warm hide floor | 88–92°F |
| Cool side | 75–80°F |
| Ambient humidity | 30–40% |
| Diet | Insectivore — gut-loaded feeders |
How to use this page
This is a condensed overview pulling together the numbers most keepers look up repeatedly. Each topic has its own full guide linked from the info library for more detail.
The essentials at a glance
Enclosure: 20-gal minimum, 36x18 in recommended. Heating: UTH and/or overhead heat, always on a thermostat, warm hide floor 88–92°F, cool side 75–80°F. Lighting: low-level UVB (2–6% T5) now recommended. Humidity: 30–40% ambient, 70–80% in a humid hide. Diet: gut-loaded insects, calcium-dusted, feeding frequency scaled to age. Substrate: paper towel or tile for young/quarantine geckos; a packed soil-sand-clay mix for established adults. Temperament: generally calm and handleable once settled, though individual personality varies.
First-week priorities
Get temperatures verified with a digital probe thermometer before the gecko arrives, have a vet-visit plan in mind, and expect a settling-in period of reduced appetite and hiding in the first days — that's normal, not necessarily a problem.
See the full care guides guide, or browse all 593 info pages.
A single adult leopard gecko needs a 20-gallon long tank as an absolute minimum, with a 36x18 in (40-gallon breeder) footprint now considered the recommended standard — plus a secure lid, an under-tank heater on a thermostat, a thermal gradient, at least three hides, and a shallow water dish.
Set up in this order: substrate, then heat source wired through a thermostat, then hides and water dish, then decor — and run the whole enclosure for at least 24–48 hours to confirm stable temperatures before your gecko moves in.
Hatchlings can start in a 10-gallon tank or tub, juveniles do well in 20 gallons, and adults need a 20-gallon long as an absolute minimum — with 36x18 in (40-gallon breeder) now the widely recommended standard, not just an upgrade.
Heat a leopard gecko enclosure with an under-tank heater and/or overhead heat source (halogen or deep heat projector) wired through a thermostat — a thermostat is mandatory, not optional, and heat rocks should never be used.
Leopard geckos can survive without UVB using dietary D3 supplementation, but current husbandry guidance now recommends low-level UVB (roughly 2–6% T5) as best practice — it improves D3 synthesis, bone density, and natural behavior, and views on it have shifted significantly from older nocturnal-species advice.
Keep ambient humidity around 30–40% across most of the enclosure, with a dedicated humid hide raised to roughly 70–80% to support smooth, complete sheds.