Feeding schedule
By life stage
A gecko's feeding frequency, portion size, and supplement timing all change as they age. Overfeeding adults and underfeeding juveniles are the two most common mistakes.
Feeding schedule by life stage
| Life stage | Frequency | Amount | Feeder sizing | Calcium | Multivitamin |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Hatchling 0 – 3 months | Daily | As much as eaten in 15 minutes | Pinhead crickets, smallest BSFL, tiny dubia nymphs — nothing wider than eye spacing | Every feeding | Twice weekly |
Juvenile 3 – 6 months | Daily | ~2 insects per inch of body length | Small feeders — no wider than the space between the gecko's eyes | Every feeding | Weekly |
Sub-adult 6 – 12 months | Every other day | ~2 insects per inch of body length | Medium feeders — size up gradually as gecko grows | Every other feeding | Weekly |
Adult 12+ months | 2 – 3× per week | Controlled — monitor tail thickness | Adult-sized feeders, never wider than the head | Every other feeding | Weekly |
Portion & water care
Tail health check: An adult gecko whose tail is noticeably fatter than their neck is being overfed. The tail stores fat reserves — a very fat tail signals excess. A lean but not sunken tail base is the target. Juveniles should have a plump tail relative to their body; a thin tail is a warning sign.
The 15-minute rule: Offer food and observe. Whatever hasn't been eaten in 15 minutes should be removed. This applies especially to crickets, which will bite your gecko if left loose overnight.
Water: Fresh water must be available at all times in a shallow dish. Shallow enough that your gecko cannot drown — no deeper than their belly. Change it whenever it is soiled, which may be daily.
Bathing: Leopard geckos do not need regular baths and should not be bathed as a routine — it stresses them. The exception is retained shed: a 10–15 minute warm shallow soak helps loosen stuck skin. Never use soap, and never leave a gecko unattended in water. For a fuller guide on shedding and retained shed, see the shedding page →