Leopard Gecko Fecal Exams: Why & How Often
Why it's done
Many internal parasites cause no obvious symptoms in early stages, so a fecal exam is the main way to catch a problem before it affects weight, appetite, or, in the case of cryptosporidiosis, becomes untreatable.
When it's most important
A fecal exam during the quarantine period for any newly acquired gecko is considered standard good practice, particularly before introducing the new animal's food, water, or tools anywhere near an existing collection.
What it can catch
Common findings include coccidia, pinworms, and — most seriously — cryptosporidium, each of which has different treatment implications, from a simple dewormer to strict permanent quarantine.
Ongoing testing
Established, healthy geckos with no symptoms don't typically need repeat fecal testing on a fixed schedule, but any unexplained weight loss, soft stool, or appetite change is a reason to run one.
See the full care guides guide, or browse all 593 info pages.
A single adult leopard gecko needs a 20-gallon long tank as an absolute minimum, with a 36x18 in (40-gallon breeder) footprint now considered the recommended standard — plus a secure lid, an under-tank heater on a thermostat, a thermal gradient, at least three hides, and a shallow water dish.
Set up in this order: substrate, then heat source wired through a thermostat, then hides and water dish, then decor — and run the whole enclosure for at least 24–48 hours to confirm stable temperatures before your gecko moves in.
Hatchlings can start in a 10-gallon tank or tub, juveniles do well in 20 gallons, and adults need a 20-gallon long as an absolute minimum — with 36x18 in (40-gallon breeder) now the widely recommended standard, not just an upgrade.
Heat a leopard gecko enclosure with an under-tank heater and/or overhead heat source (halogen or deep heat projector) wired through a thermostat — a thermostat is mandatory, not optional, and heat rocks should never be used.
Leopard geckos can survive without UVB using dietary D3 supplementation, but current husbandry guidance now recommends low-level UVB (roughly 2–6% T5) as best practice — it improves D3 synthesis, bone density, and natural behavior, and views on it have shifted significantly from older nocturnal-species advice.
Keep ambient humidity around 30–40% across most of the enclosure, with a dedicated humid hide raised to roughly 70–80% to support smooth, complete sheds.