Leopard Gecko First Week Checklist: What to Do When You Bring One Home
| Enclosure burn-in before arrival | 24–48 hours |
| Handling | Wait ~5–7 days |
| Normal appetite dip | First few days |
Before the gecko arrives
The enclosure should already be fully set up and burned in — thermostat verified, hides in place, water dish filled — for at least 24–48 hours before the gecko moves in, so you're not troubleshooting temperatures with an animal already inside.
Days 1–3
Leave the gecko alone as much as possible beyond a visual health check. Offer food but don't be alarmed if it's ignored — many geckos don't eat for the first few days in a new environment.
Days 4–7
Appetite typically starts returning around this point. Continue to avoid handling; a brief, calm presence near the enclosure (without opening it) helps the gecko get used to your movement and shadow.
What's normal vs concerning
Normal: reduced appetite, extra hiding, some initial skittishness. Concerning: no interest in food after 2+ weeks combined with weight loss, or visible injury, discharge, or lethargy — these warrant a vet check rather than more patience.
Starting handling
Most keepers wait until the gecko is reliably eating and appears settled — often around the one-week mark — before starting short, gentle handling sessions.
See the full care guides guide, or browse all 593 info pages.
A single adult leopard gecko needs a 20-gallon long tank as an absolute minimum, with a 36x18 in (40-gallon breeder) footprint now considered the recommended standard — plus a secure lid, an under-tank heater on a thermostat, a thermal gradient, at least three hides, and a shallow water dish.
Set up in this order: substrate, then heat source wired through a thermostat, then hides and water dish, then decor — and run the whole enclosure for at least 24–48 hours to confirm stable temperatures before your gecko moves in.
Hatchlings can start in a 10-gallon tank or tub, juveniles do well in 20 gallons, and adults need a 20-gallon long as an absolute minimum — with 36x18 in (40-gallon breeder) now the widely recommended standard, not just an upgrade.
Heat a leopard gecko enclosure with an under-tank heater and/or overhead heat source (halogen or deep heat projector) wired through a thermostat — a thermostat is mandatory, not optional, and heat rocks should never be used.
Leopard geckos can survive without UVB using dietary D3 supplementation, but current husbandry guidance now recommends low-level UVB (roughly 2–6% T5) as best practice — it improves D3 synthesis, bone density, and natural behavior, and views on it have shifted significantly from older nocturnal-species advice.
Keep ambient humidity around 30–40% across most of the enclosure, with a dedicated humid hide raised to roughly 70–80% to support smooth, complete sheds.