Leopard Gecko Impaction: Symptoms & Risk Factors
| Main risk factor | Loose fine-particle substrate ingested while feeding |
| Key symptom | Swollen/hard belly + straining |
| Urgency | Vet emergency if severe or prolonged |
What impaction is
Impaction is a blockage in the digestive tract, most often from ingested substrate, oversized prey, or in rare cases a large amount of shed skin. It prevents normal passage of waste and can become life-threatening if untreated.
Warning signs
A visibly swollen or firm belly, straining or repeated unsuccessful attempts to pass stool, reduced appetite, and lethargy are the main signs to watch for. Any combination of these warrants a vet call rather than a wait-and-see approach.
Why substrate choice matters
Feeding directly on loose, fine-particle substrate (like loose sand) raises the odds of accidental ingestion during feeding strikes, which is the main reason many keepers use a feeding dish or a solid-surface substrate for feeding even in bioactive setups.
When it's an emergency
A hard, swollen abdomen combined with several days of no bowel movement and lethargy needs same-day veterinary attention — severe impactions can require surgical removal if not caught early.
See the full care guides guide, or browse all 593 info pages.
A single adult leopard gecko needs a 20-gallon long tank as an absolute minimum, with a 36x18 in (40-gallon breeder) footprint now considered the recommended standard — plus a secure lid, an under-tank heater on a thermostat, a thermal gradient, at least three hides, and a shallow water dish.
Set up in this order: substrate, then heat source wired through a thermostat, then hides and water dish, then decor — and run the whole enclosure for at least 24–48 hours to confirm stable temperatures before your gecko moves in.
Hatchlings can start in a 10-gallon tank or tub, juveniles do well in 20 gallons, and adults need a 20-gallon long as an absolute minimum — with 36x18 in (40-gallon breeder) now the widely recommended standard, not just an upgrade.
Heat a leopard gecko enclosure with an under-tank heater and/or overhead heat source (halogen or deep heat projector) wired through a thermostat — a thermostat is mandatory, not optional, and heat rocks should never be used.
Leopard geckos can survive without UVB using dietary D3 supplementation, but current husbandry guidance now recommends low-level UVB (roughly 2–6% T5) as best practice — it improves D3 synthesis, bone density, and natural behavior, and views on it have shifted significantly from older nocturnal-species advice.
Keep ambient humidity around 30–40% across most of the enclosure, with a dedicated humid hide raised to roughly 70–80% to support smooth, complete sheds.