Leopard Gecko Morphs Explained
The genetics basics
Recessive traits (like most albino strains) only show up when a gecko inherits the gene from both parents. Dominant and codominant traits can show with just one copy, and often produce a milder "het" or intermediate appearance with one copy versus a fuller expression with two. Breeders combine multiple traits to produce complex, layered morph combinations.
Popular morph categories
Albino strains (several distinct lineages, not interchangeable), high-yellow and hypo lines, tangerine and blood lines, patternless and blizzard, and pattern-modifying traits like mack snow or stripe, are among the most established categories the hobby is built on.
Welfare concerns to research before buying
A small number of morphs and morph combinations carry documented health complications — most notably enigma syndrome, associated with neurological symptoms like a head tilt or stargazing behavior in some enigma-line geckos, and eye or vision issues that turn up in some low-pigment or eclipse-eyed lines. These aren't universal to every gecko carrying the gene, but they're worth knowing about before choosing a morph.
Buying from a reputable source
A breeder who can speak knowledgeably about a specific morph's genetics and any associated health considerations, and who keeps clean, well-documented lines, is a better sign than price alone.
See the full care guides guide, or browse all 593 info pages.
A single adult leopard gecko needs a 20-gallon long tank as an absolute minimum, with a 36x18 in (40-gallon breeder) footprint now considered the recommended standard — plus a secure lid, an under-tank heater on a thermostat, a thermal gradient, at least three hides, and a shallow water dish.
Set up in this order: substrate, then heat source wired through a thermostat, then hides and water dish, then decor — and run the whole enclosure for at least 24–48 hours to confirm stable temperatures before your gecko moves in.
Hatchlings can start in a 10-gallon tank or tub, juveniles do well in 20 gallons, and adults need a 20-gallon long as an absolute minimum — with 36x18 in (40-gallon breeder) now the widely recommended standard, not just an upgrade.
Heat a leopard gecko enclosure with an under-tank heater and/or overhead heat source (halogen or deep heat projector) wired through a thermostat — a thermostat is mandatory, not optional, and heat rocks should never be used.
Leopard geckos can survive without UVB using dietary D3 supplementation, but current husbandry guidance now recommends low-level UVB (roughly 2–6% T5) as best practice — it improves D3 synthesis, bone density, and natural behavior, and views on it have shifted significantly from older nocturnal-species advice.
Keep ambient humidity around 30–40% across most of the enclosure, with a dedicated humid hide raised to roughly 70–80% to support smooth, complete sheds.