Leopard Gecko Prolapse: What It Is & Why It's an Emergency
| Urgency | Same-day emergency, always |
| First aid | Keep tissue moist and clean |
| Do not use | Petroleum-based products on the tissue |
What a prolapse looks like
Prolapse is when internal tissue — part of the cloaca, hemipenes (in males), oviduct, or intestine — protrudes visibly from the vent. It can follow straining from impaction, egg-binding, parasites, or, less commonly, occur without an obvious trigger.
Why it's always urgent
Exposed tissue dries out and can become necrotic within hours, and the underlying cause (straining, impaction, infection) still needs treating — this is never a wait-and-see situation, regardless of how alert the gecko otherwise seems.
First response while arranging a vet
Keep the exposed tissue moist with a clean, damp, lubricated (plain water-based lubricant, not petroleum-based) cloth or gauze, keep the gecko on a clean paper-towel surface away from loose substrate that could stick to the tissue, and get to an exotics vet the same day.
Outcome
Many prolapses are treatable if addressed quickly, sometimes requiring the vet to gently reduce (replace) the tissue and occasionally place a retaining suture; delayed treatment significantly worsens the prognosis.
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A single adult leopard gecko needs a 20-gallon long tank as an absolute minimum, with a 36x18 in (40-gallon breeder) footprint now considered the recommended standard — plus a secure lid, an under-tank heater on a thermostat, a thermal gradient, at least three hides, and a shallow water dish.
Set up in this order: substrate, then heat source wired through a thermostat, then hides and water dish, then decor — and run the whole enclosure for at least 24–48 hours to confirm stable temperatures before your gecko moves in.
Hatchlings can start in a 10-gallon tank or tub, juveniles do well in 20 gallons, and adults need a 20-gallon long as an absolute minimum — with 36x18 in (40-gallon breeder) now the widely recommended standard, not just an upgrade.
Heat a leopard gecko enclosure with an under-tank heater and/or overhead heat source (halogen or deep heat projector) wired through a thermostat — a thermostat is mandatory, not optional, and heat rocks should never be used.
Leopard geckos can survive without UVB using dietary D3 supplementation, but current husbandry guidance now recommends low-level UVB (roughly 2–6% T5) as best practice — it improves D3 synthesis, bone density, and natural behavior, and views on it have shifted significantly from older nocturnal-species advice.
Keep ambient humidity around 30–40% across most of the enclosure, with a dedicated humid hide raised to roughly 70–80% to support smooth, complete sheds.