Leopard Gecko Respiratory Infection: Signs & Causes
| Common trigger | Ambient temperatures too low |
| Key sign | Clicking/wheezing breath sounds |
| Treatment | Vet-prescribed antibiotics |
Signs to watch for
Audible clicking, wheezing, or popping sounds while breathing, breathing with the mouth open, bubbling or discharge at the nostrils, and general lethargy or reduced appetite are the classic signs of a respiratory infection.
The usual root cause
Reptile respiratory infections are very frequently linked to housing temperatures that are too low, particularly a cool ambient temperature that suppresses the immune system — checking overall enclosure temperature, not just the basking spot, is a key first step.
Treatment
This is a bacterial condition in most cases and requires a vet-prescribed antibiotic course; it will not clear up from warming the enclosure alone, though correcting the temperature is an essential part of recovery support.
Prevention
Keeping ambient (not just basking-spot) temperatures within the recommended range around the clock, and avoiding drafty room placement for the enclosure, are the main preventive steps.
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A single adult leopard gecko needs a 20-gallon long tank as an absolute minimum, with a 36x18 in (40-gallon breeder) footprint now considered the recommended standard — plus a secure lid, an under-tank heater on a thermostat, a thermal gradient, at least three hides, and a shallow water dish.
Set up in this order: substrate, then heat source wired through a thermostat, then hides and water dish, then decor — and run the whole enclosure for at least 24–48 hours to confirm stable temperatures before your gecko moves in.
Hatchlings can start in a 10-gallon tank or tub, juveniles do well in 20 gallons, and adults need a 20-gallon long as an absolute minimum — with 36x18 in (40-gallon breeder) now the widely recommended standard, not just an upgrade.
Heat a leopard gecko enclosure with an under-tank heater and/or overhead heat source (halogen or deep heat projector) wired through a thermostat — a thermostat is mandatory, not optional, and heat rocks should never be used.
Leopard geckos can survive without UVB using dietary D3 supplementation, but current husbandry guidance now recommends low-level UVB (roughly 2–6% T5) as best practice — it improves D3 synthesis, bone density, and natural behavior, and views on it have shifted significantly from older nocturnal-species advice.
Keep ambient humidity around 30–40% across most of the enclosure, with a dedicated humid hide raised to roughly 70–80% to support smooth, complete sheds.