Leopard Gecko vs African Fat-Tailed Gecko: What's the Difference?
| Humidity | Leo: 30–40% · AFT: 50–70% |
| Warm side temp | Leo: 90–94°F · AFT: 86–88°F |
| Scientific name (AFT) | Hemitheconyx caudicinctus |
How they differ visually
African fat-tailed geckos have shorter, wider tails, darker striped patterning, and a stockier build. Leopard geckos have far more established colour morphs and spotting variety on the market.
Humidity is the key care difference
Leopard geckos thrive at 30–40% humidity with a single humid hide. AFTs need sustained 50–70% humidity with moisture-retentive substrate and regular misting, or they're prone to shedding and health problems.
Temperature
Leos run slightly warmer, with a warm side around 90–94°F. AFTs prefer a slightly cooler warm side around 86–88°F.
Temperament
Both species handle well, but AFTs are frequently described as even calmer and more tolerant of handling than leos, including as adults — though they can be shyer and more strictly nocturnal in overall activity.
Availability
Leopard geckos are far more widely available in pet stores, with an established morph market. AFTs are more of a specialist find, usually sourced through dedicated breeders.
See the full care guides guide, or browse all 593 info pages.
A single adult leopard gecko needs a 20-gallon long tank as an absolute minimum, with a 36x18 in (40-gallon breeder) footprint now considered the recommended standard — plus a secure lid, an under-tank heater on a thermostat, a thermal gradient, at least three hides, and a shallow water dish.
Set up in this order: substrate, then heat source wired through a thermostat, then hides and water dish, then decor — and run the whole enclosure for at least 24–48 hours to confirm stable temperatures before your gecko moves in.
Hatchlings can start in a 10-gallon tank or tub, juveniles do well in 20 gallons, and adults need a 20-gallon long as an absolute minimum — with 36x18 in (40-gallon breeder) now the widely recommended standard, not just an upgrade.
Heat a leopard gecko enclosure with an under-tank heater and/or overhead heat source (halogen or deep heat projector) wired through a thermostat — a thermostat is mandatory, not optional, and heat rocks should never be used.
Leopard geckos can survive without UVB using dietary D3 supplementation, but current husbandry guidance now recommends low-level UVB (roughly 2–6% T5) as best practice — it improves D3 synthesis, bone density, and natural behavior, and views on it have shifted significantly from older nocturnal-species advice.
Keep ambient humidity around 30–40% across most of the enclosure, with a dedicated humid hide raised to roughly 70–80% to support smooth, complete sheds.