Leopard Gecko vs Mourning Gecko: Key Differences
Reproduction is the headline difference
Mourning geckos are one of the few reptile species that reproduce through parthenogenesis — females lay viable, fertile eggs without needing a male at all — a biological trait leopard geckos entirely lack; leopard geckos require both a male and a female to produce fertile eggs.
Habitat use
Leopard geckos are ground-dwelling and lack the adhesive toe pads for climbing, while mourning geckos are small, agile climbers that use vertical space extensively, requiring a taller, more heavily planted enclosure style.
Social housing
Leopard geckos are solitary and best kept alone, while mourning geckos are commonly kept in small female colonies without the territorial conflict issues that arise from housing multiple leopard geckos together.
Size and handling
Mourning geckos are considerably smaller and more delicate, and are generally considered a 'look, don't handle much' species, unlike leopard geckos, which tolerate regular gentle handling comparatively well.
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A single adult leopard gecko needs a 20-gallon long tank as an absolute minimum, with a 36x18 in (40-gallon breeder) footprint now considered the recommended standard — plus a secure lid, an under-tank heater on a thermostat, a thermal gradient, at least three hides, and a shallow water dish.
Set up in this order: substrate, then heat source wired through a thermostat, then hides and water dish, then decor — and run the whole enclosure for at least 24–48 hours to confirm stable temperatures before your gecko moves in.
Hatchlings can start in a 10-gallon tank or tub, juveniles do well in 20 gallons, and adults need a 20-gallon long as an absolute minimum — with 36x18 in (40-gallon breeder) now the widely recommended standard, not just an upgrade.
Heat a leopard gecko enclosure with an under-tank heater and/or overhead heat source (halogen or deep heat projector) wired through a thermostat — a thermostat is mandatory, not optional, and heat rocks should never be used.
Leopard geckos can survive without UVB using dietary D3 supplementation, but current husbandry guidance now recommends low-level UVB (roughly 2–6% T5) as best practice — it improves D3 synthesis, bone density, and natural behavior, and views on it have shifted significantly from older nocturnal-species advice.
Keep ambient humidity around 30–40% across most of the enclosure, with a dedicated humid hide raised to roughly 70–80% to support smooth, complete sheds.