Leopard Gecko Weight Chart by Age
| Hatchling (0–1 mo) | 2–5 g |
| Juvenile (2–6 mo) | ~10–25 g |
| Sub-adult (6–12 mo) | ~25–45 g |
| Adult (12 mo+) | ~45–70 g |
Weight ranges are approximate, not a scorecard
These figures are broad guidelines, not a strict target. Body build, genetics, and even morph can shift a perfectly healthy gecko's weight noticeably outside these ranges. Trend over time matters far more than hitting a specific number.
How to weigh correctly
Use a digital kitchen or gram scale, weigh at a consistent time (feeding and bowel movements affect the reading), and log it regularly — weekly for juveniles, monthly for adults — so you can spot trends rather than one-off numbers.
The tail matters more than the scale
A leopard gecko's tail stores fat and is one of the best individual health indicators. A thick, evenly rounded tail signals good body condition; a thin, pinched, or carrot-shaped tail suggests the gecko has been underfed, sick, or recently stressed, regardless of what the scale says.
When to be concerned
Sudden or rapid weight loss, a consistently thin tail despite regular feeding, or a gecko that's dramatically outside these ranges in either direction warrants a check-in on husbandry and, if it persists, a reptile vet visit.
See the full care guides guide, or browse all 593 info pages.
A single adult leopard gecko needs a 20-gallon long tank as an absolute minimum, with a 36x18 in (40-gallon breeder) footprint now considered the recommended standard — plus a secure lid, an under-tank heater on a thermostat, a thermal gradient, at least three hides, and a shallow water dish.
Set up in this order: substrate, then heat source wired through a thermostat, then hides and water dish, then decor — and run the whole enclosure for at least 24–48 hours to confirm stable temperatures before your gecko moves in.
Hatchlings can start in a 10-gallon tank or tub, juveniles do well in 20 gallons, and adults need a 20-gallon long as an absolute minimum — with 36x18 in (40-gallon breeder) now the widely recommended standard, not just an upgrade.
Heat a leopard gecko enclosure with an under-tank heater and/or overhead heat source (halogen or deep heat projector) wired through a thermostat — a thermostat is mandatory, not optional, and heat rocks should never be used.
Leopard geckos can survive without UVB using dietary D3 supplementation, but current husbandry guidance now recommends low-level UVB (roughly 2–6% T5) as best practice — it improves D3 synthesis, bone density, and natural behavior, and views on it have shifted significantly from older nocturnal-species advice.
Keep ambient humidity around 30–40% across most of the enclosure, with a dedicated humid hide raised to roughly 70–80% to support smooth, complete sheds.